The sea is still quite rough. When I arrived at the pipe I chatted with a fellow long-boarder who had been out the reef a few hundred meters out from where I usually sit and he said the waves were “onbeskof”. What does that mean? Rude or unruly I guess. A good description. So I decided to paint first. So I set up in the usual place, this time with a sheet 380x560mm (a half sheet) of Arches 300gm cold pressed. And I set up a video camera, which is quite a schlep but anyway. This is what I did:
While I was painting a couple came and stood on the dune in the foreground to look at the waves. After a while I asked them if they planned to be there long as they might end up starring in a watercolour. Just then we recognised each other. They also surf. And it turns out they do demotions. When rocks roll of the mountains in the painting, onto the road, they are called out to blast them. Neat job! The other day they demolished a local bridge. Man – how cool is that?
Later I packed away and took my board out. After a real slog I made it out to the back. The waves were really big. And some were crashing really heavily. After a couple of false starts I had a really nice ride and called it a day.